Well it is Christmas! I’m normally used to snow and negative temperatures, but 80’s and sunny is fine with me. Tonight we will be dressing up and going to Christmas mass, where Ajo is a server. Later around 3 AM Nick and Alex will be arriving! I’m excited for them to get here. I’ve been busy the past few days. I moved out of the hotel to a spare room at Alex and Ajo’s house. I’ve been having fun hanging out with Ajo and his friends.
A few nights ago we went to a shisha (or hooka) bar. A few of my friends own hooka pipes and there are a few nice hooka bars around Detroit. For those who don’t know: shisha is smoking fresh, usually flavored tobacco from a large water pipe. The smoke is cool, smooth, and very relaxing. Unlike the hooka coals in the US which are tablets with some sort of combustible substance inside that makes them easy to light, the coals here are loose and natural. There is a guy who walks around with a large metal ladle full of coals and replaces the ones on your pipe when they are dying out. The hooka bar was nice, with lots of tables and comfortable places to sit. There were several TVs and some of those bar computer games. We hung out and played some card games. We played poker for points. Gambling is very illegal here, playing poker for money can get you 40 lashes. We also played a traditional Indian card game called Donkey. This game is simple but extremely fun and involves a lot of strategy and risk. We have played it several nights since then and it is always a good time. It gets it’s name because the loser of the game has to put a sock on their ear, and if they have socks on both ears they have to make a donkey noise, otherwise they get a “round of slaps”. We didn’t do the sock thing but made sure the losers made some type of embarrassing sound.

Kevin and Bennet
Ajo and me
A couple days ago we put up the Christmas tree at their house. It is an artificial tree, obviously real pine trees are hard to come by here. Normally Ajo’s family puts the tree up together but since they are in India with his Dad for the next week or so we made sure it was up for Christmas. We left the star off the tree for Alex to put on when he arrives. The tree looks great, bedecked with ornaments, beads, and lights.

Yesterday we took a bus and the metro across town to the Mall of the Emirates. It is not the Dubai mall, which is the largest mall in the world, but was still extremely impressive. On the way there we rode the bus, the busses here are identical to the ones in Germany, very modern. The metro is also really nice and new. The trains are automatic, no drivers. The stations are extremely clean and nicely designed. Here is a photo of Ajo and I at the station. I’m looking kind of smarmy with my eyes at half blink.

On the metro we rode through downtown, which was amazing. I didn’t take any photos since we were zipping through on the train and I’ll be there again soon to take some proper pictures. There is so much construction going on. Dozens of huge skyscrapers are in a partially finished state, their concrete skeletons showing through open patches in their sleek glass and steel skins. What was very unusual is unlike normal city construction where there is an established street and neighborhood surrounding the site, it looks like these buildings are rising out of the bare desert themselves. Sections of the downtown are just a sea of sandy construction sites, with beautiful tall skyscrapers sprouting through. Only a few paved paths cross through these areas, like there was nothing there before. A couple apartment buildings had only one lane of paved road circling the building which connected to another path that led out of the construction area. Further back was the Burj Dubai, the tallest building in the world. It is stunning and has almost an art-deco look to it with rings of chrome over the tall glass cylinders. It is 2 to 3 times taller than any of the surrounding buildings. It officially opens on January 4th and we will be there to see it for sure.
We arrived at the mall and started walking around. I bought a plug converter so I could charge and use my dead laptop. The mall is nicer than any I’ve been to in the states, and about 4 times bigger. Each section has its own design theme. All the floors are colorful marble, and everything is very pleasantly designed. There are lots of interesting shops there, and uber-expensive jewelry and watch stores.

Me next to an impractically large teapot

We ate at the food court which had some really nice selections. There was a KFC, Burger Kang, and Pizza Hut, but also a lot of really good looking ethnic restaurants from Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Italian, etc. The mall is also the first place that I’ve seen tourists, besides a handful near the gold district. It is pretty nice since so far I’ve been seeing a lot of the city that is off the beaten path for most foreigners. One interesting thing about the mall is that there is a dress code which is somewhat followed by most of the tourists. You have to be modestly dressed, no skirts above the knees. Many of the women I have seen so far at least have their hair covered. Some wear the full burqa, although most have their faces uncovered. Many of the women at the mall had ornately decorated burqas, and were probably more rich than most of the women I’ve seen so far. Not all the women were wearing traditional garb, most were wearing what any woman would wear to the mall in the US.
There was a large Christmas tree in the middle of the mall with an animatronic polar bear for the kids to sit on. Not sure if Santa was on break or something.

One of the main attractions to this mall is Ski Dubai, the only indoor ski slope. We walked into the main area where you buy tickets and rent equipment. It is 180 dirhams, or 60 dollars for 2 hours of skiing. I’m not a skiing fan and unfortunately the only look we could get of the inside was through the windows near the food court. It is still pretty unbelievable to see a ski hill in the middle of the desert.
We decided to hang out outside, luckily we chose an exit next to the main valet area and saw some incredible vehicles.




And I showed the guys the traditional American way to pose in front of a Rolls Royce.

Christmas eve Ajo and I dressed up for mass. We went to this neighborhood in the city that has the most schools in one area. It also had the most churches in one area. There was a mosque on one side of the street with the catholic church, then Ajo’s church – Serbian orthodox Christian, on the other side. The Catholic church was holding several masses that night in different languages. I caught the end of the French mass and decided to walk across the street to see what was going on with Ajo’s mass. The Serbian Orthodox mass is interesting. You need to remove your shoes before entering the church, and there is only a small section of pews for older folks and women with babies, everyone else stands on the carpet. Men were all on the left side and women on the right; the men were wearing the standard Sunday church wear like you would find in the US. The women were all wearing brightly colored dresses with beautifully ornate embroidered patterns. Many covered their hair with scarves. The mass was in Malayalam, Ajo and Alex’s native language, and pretty much the whole mass was sung. After standing in the back for about 45 minutes, the mass is about 3 hours, I decided to see if the English mass was underway. I had to walk through thick crowds of people dressed up for mass, and the whole outside of the church was packed with people watching the mass projected on screens. There is a large Pilipino population in Dubai and it seemed like they were all at that mass.
The Mosque across the street from Ajo’s church
One of the Xmas displays at the Catholic church
Ajo’s Serbian Orthodox church

I went back to Ajo’s church and the place was now packed. The inside had filled so there were people standing outside along the walls of the church facing the altar, and there were huge piles of shoes. When mass was over everyone flooded in the square outside the church, cakes and coffee were served. A choir of girls got on stage and started singing Christmas carols while parents took photos and video. While that was happening a parade started walking around the outside by a group of men with drums and a guy dressed as Santa singing songs. It was pretty interesting and fun to see. Ajo said the celebrating goes late into the night until the priest finally kicks out the stragglers. We walked to a corner cafeteria, ate two different kinds of schawarma and took a cab home to wait for Nick and Alex to arrive that morning.
The girl’s Christmas choir
The Christmas “conga line’ with Santa
That is all for now. Alex and Nick come tonight, and with Alex we will have someone with a drivers license so I will be seeing even more of the city. Stay tuned and thanks for all the comments so far!